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Spots and Blotches on My Plants - Why?
by Becky Day
Spots and blotches appear on the leaves and some flowers. The spots range in size from barely visible to an inch or more in diameter. They might be yellow, red, tan, gray, brown, or black. A number of spots might join to form big blotches. Frequently the infected leaves are yellow and dying. Spotting is occasionally accompanied by oozing, leaf yellowing, wilting, and decay. In damp conditions, a fine gray mold occasionally covers the infected leaf tissue. On iris, the spots have distinct reddish borders and might be surrounded by water-soaked margins that later turn yellow.
Thousands of leaf-spotting fungi exist, and most flowering plants are occasionally blemished by leaf spots. Fortunately, most leaf spots cause only cosmetic damage on flowering plants. Nevertheless, they can turn out to be serious enough to eventually kill plants, particularly if plants are infected a number of years in a row. Infection is generally most severe throughout moist, warm weather 50 to 85 degrees. The fungal spores are spread by splashing water, wind, insects, tools used, and infected transplants and seed. The spores germinate, generally inside a drop of water on the leaf surface, and enter the leaf. A spot forms wherever spores infect a leaf. Leaf spot fungi survive the winter in old infected leaves and plant debris. It is important to identify the fungal bacterial leaf spot prior to beginning any kind of control. In general, fungal leaf spots are little and circular and bacterial leaf spots are generally tiny and angular in shape.
These spots effect a large number of plants, annuals, perennials, biennials, and bulbs, particularly begonia, campanula, chrysanthemum, delphinium, daylily, heuchera, impatiens, iris, nasturtium, geramiums, and viola.
Picking off diseased leaves might give adequate manage if your plant is only lightly spotted. Remove and destroy plants which are severely infected. Clean up plant debris in the fall to make certain you are rid of it before overwintering. Water early in the day to ensure that foliage can dry thoroughly and to ensure that the fungi do not have a chance to germinate on wet plant parts. Grow resistant plant varieties whenever feasible. If plants are severely infected, spray them with a fungicide containing mancozeb, fundamental copper sulfate, azoxystrobin, or iprodione. Make certain that your plant is listed on the label prior to spraying, and make certain your plant is infected having a fungal leaf spot rather than a bacterial leaf spot. Most fungicides are not effective on bacterial leaf spots. Time your spraying carefully.
Fungicides are protectants, not controls. They protect the new, healthy foliage by providing a protective barrier on the leaf surface and preventing the spores from germinating or killing the spores prior to they enter the leaf. To become effective, this protective barrier should be in place prior to the spore landing on the leaf. The fungicide should also be renewed periodically as it wears off or as new, unprotected growth appears. Old leaves which are already infected will not be affected by the fungicide and will remain diseased. Iris leaves ought to be sprayed in spring as soon as new growth appears. Repeat 4 to 6 more times at intervals of 7 to 10 days. Use a spreader-sticker to make certain the fungicide adheres to the smooth iris leaves.
About the Author
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